Can winter really be complete without saag, even if you’re in Mumbai? This writer had her first saag of the season at HyLo in South Mumbai’s Kala Ghoda. Short for ‘hyper local,’ the newly launched restaurant by Mayank Bhatt—who spent over a decade at Impresario as its CEO and Business Head before founding All In Hospitality—promises regional fare from across the country.
The menu includes delights such as ema datshi, a Bhutanese chilli stew cooked in yak cheese, equally relished in the mountainous regions of Arunachal Pradesh; Goa’s famed Surmai curry; Kerala’s mutton fry; Maharashtra’s thecha prawns; and Ahmedabad’s moong dal vada, to name a few.
“This menu was seven years in the making,” shared chef Swati Harsha, who conceived the menu with Mrigank Singh, culinary director at All In Hospitality, and her schoolmate from Lucknow. “We’ve been traveling the country, meeting families, and documenting their recipes,” she added as her team brought us a wide range of appetisers to sample.
We began with Kaale Chane Ke Shami (Rs 390) from her native Lucknow. “Although there should be no competition, the idea back home is that the vegetarian iteration should be so good that non-vegetarians can’t figure it out,” she explained. The kebabs delivered: they were flavourful, melt-in-the-mouth, and had a fiery kick when paired with green coriander chutney.
Next came Pathar ka Ghosht (Rs 550), where meat is cooked on granite and served on actual stones. With just four spices, it was a standout. The mutton was tender, delicious, and not chewy, with the spices subtly complementing the natural flavour of the meat.
The Paneer Tikka Gulistan (Rs 490) and Amdavadi Dal Vada (Rs 390), with their subtle hint of cheese, were noteworthy. However, the vegetarian dish that truly stole the show was the Tandoori Baingan (Rs 390). Borrowed from Hyderabad, this dish featured brinjal cooked in a tandoor giving it a crispy texture that eliminated its usual gooeyness. It was then paired beautifully with a spread of hung curd blended with cheese and topped with roasted cashews, making it a standout appetiser.
For non-vegetarians, Chicken Sekua (Rs 490), a grilled chicken dish inspired by one of HyLo’s team members who hails from Nepal, is a must-try. The flavours of the chicken marinade were different from the tandoori grills we eat in India, but still reminiscent of it. Another highlight was Kerala Mutton Pepper Fry (Rs 550), a homage to Kerala Beef Fry. The curry leaves, green chilies, black pepper, and other spices came together beautifully, making us wish we had Kerala parotta to pair it with.
Accompanying these were cocktails (each priced at Rs 690) curated by mixologist Razvan ‘Razz’ Zamfirescu, whose last stint was at antiSOCIAL Goa. At HyLo, he draws inspiration from Mumbai’s flavours. A refreshing drink Berry Bawa paid homage to Pallonji’s Raspberry Soda, while another Bombay 01 celebrated Aam Panna with subtle raw mango notes. Musk-eteer standout was a frothy lassi-topped cocktail with muskmelon juice underneath, served with a side of fruit chaat.
“There’s a fruit vendor below our restaurant who inspired this drink. I decided to elevate it by combining it with Punjab’s famous lassi,” shared Raz, who also takes pride in crafting classic cocktails with precision, celebrating the heritage of cocktail culture.
As we sipped on our cocktails, we couldn’t help but notice how elements like vaulted ceilings and vintage Persian carpets, paired with bold black-and-white glass prints, balance heritage and contemporary charm in this restaurant which is parked inside a heritage building. The space, done by This Is It Design Studio, is designed for older millennials, and aims to provide an inviting space for meaningful conversations.
Though we were quite full by the time the main course arrived, it turned out to be the highlight of the meal. The saag, as authentic as a home-cooked version, paired beautifully with Uttarakhand’s Bhatt ki Dal (black soybean), topped with ghee and served alongside Ambemohar rice, garlic-infused raita, and a simple cucumber, onion, and tomato salad.
The Amma Ki Pahadi Thali, inspired by the food Mayank Bhatt grew up eating at home, is priced at Rs 590. My companion opted for the Goan Fish Curry (Rs 725), which came with Indrayani rice and a piece of fried surmai. The curry, thicker and richer than the typically thin Goan fish curries, featured chunks of surmai immersed in the gravy, a refreshing departure from the usual practice of serving a whole piece. Despite being full, we polished off every bite.
The desserts (all priced at Rs 400 each) were equally indulgent. The Victoria and Iyengar, a tribute to Bangalore’s iconic Iyengar Bakery, featured a coconut pie with jam served in a pool of coconut cream and was absolutely delightful. The Chocolate Toast, with thick toast drenched in rich Manam chocolate, was pure decadence. The Taste of Benaras brought together hot milk, Benarasi paan, and the Tiranga Barfi—now boasting a GI tag—offering a nostalgic, desi treat.
What sets HyLo apart is its focus on uncomplicated, comfort-driven food that prioritises flavour, complemented by cocktails and competitive pricing.
Where: 2nd floor, building 30, K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai
Price for two: Rs 2,500 to 3,000 + taxes
For reservations, call: 9004191901
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